Hip Tastes Blog

Farming by the Cosmos
For most of us, biodynamic farming remains something of a mystery. I've defined it (loosely, I'll admit) elsewhere here in the blog as the most extreme form of organic farming, and one that takes its cues from the cycles of the moon and planets. While this is all true, there remains a lot more nuance to this fascinating way of growing grapes that I definitely don't completely understand.

Check out this chart, for instance. If you look closely (sorry the image is small!), you'll hopefully notice the planetary refrences in the "in zodiac" column. Apparently, as different planets move into the zodiac there are varying effects on the vineyard. To the right of the zodiac notes are what I guess you might call "conclusions" (see first pic in this entry); these are either "fruit", "root", "leaf", or "flower". (There's also a column between the zodiac references and what I've dubbed the conclusions called "Conjunctions, Oppositions & Events" that I don't even want to TRY to decipher!!)

The Brainiacs on Biodynamics
A little research in my trusty Oxford Companion to Wine revealed a definition for biodynamics: "[biodynamic farmers] view the soil as an integral part of the symbiosis between planet, air, and cosmos";

as well as the link between the zodiac references and the conclusions: "farmers plan their activities according to the positions of the moon and stars, the time of year, and even the time of day, favoring the growth of either leaves, roots, flowers, or fruit." Voila!

Oxford goes on to say that the farmers believe "that by following these rhythms of nature, healthier plants are produced and ultimately better wines will result." Amen.

Besides going about their farming business based on cues from the cosmos, biodynamic farmers like Medlock Ames don't use any chemicals or pesticides (junk food). Instead, they use a handful of natural materials to fight pests and encourage plant growth and healthy soil development. For the latter these include dung compost and something called horn silica, which is a material buried in the vineyards inside cow horns during the summer months (seriously). Sound like voodoo? Maybe, but given that the wines I'm tasting from biodynamic farmers are generally DELICIOUS, I'd have to say "who cares?!"

When Mysterious is a Good Thing
Plus, I kind of like the mystery surrounding it all. From someone who grew up around lots of farming in central Cali, I have to say there's rarely much apparent mystery to the process. Sure - there's definitely an aura of romance surrounding the act of planting and raising something, but besides this there's not a whole lot more to sit around wondering about. With biodynamics, we're suddenly talking about not just what's happening in the vineyard, but what's happening beyond in the cosmos. Cool.

I've included some other snaps from my adventure at Medlock, including a pic taken from the Gator, this little green off-road vehicle we took up to the vegetable garden; the garden with Kenny & winemaker Ames' dog; the hospitality building under construction; a view back at the gorgeous winery from the construction site; and - you didn't think I'd forget, did you? - the wine.

Tasting Notes
2006 Sauvignon Blanc, Alexander Valley
I have to puff a bit and brag that I was the first person after Kenny and Ames to try this wine (bottled just 10 days prior)! Just my luck to be up in wine country at the right time. ;) It's delicious and med+ to full bodied, with gorgeous aromas of honeydew melon, clover, and tropical fruits like banana & pineapple backed by notes of lychee fruit, watermelon, and key lime pie. On the palate it's dry with mod+ acid and tastes of lime rinse, pink grapefruit, more honeydew melon, peaches, and nectarines. The finish is long for a Sauvignon Blanc and reflects its bigger style (compared to, say, Loire Sauvignons).

Conclusion - like Medlock's Chardonnay, a big fav of mine, the SB is in a full-bodied style but packs enough zippy acidity to carry off its weight beautifully. And the aromatics are a lovely blend of typical Sauvignon smells (think grapefruit, lime) and rich tropical and pit fruit notes that will appeal to folks who tend to like richer whites. Highly recommended.

medlockames.com