For someone who's never driven in France, I further congratulate myself wholeheartedly on getting the two of us to the property life and limb intact. For those of you who've never driven in France, the roundabouts are many and quite tricky. Add to the confusion a somewhat confused but vocally talented passenger/navigator screeching that every option you've just whizzed past was THE way to go and you've got yourself a rather hairy situation.

Being the more reflective partner in this twosome, I settled for calmy continuing to circle each roundabout until we'd clearly considered each option (often there are as many as five or six possible turns you can make, including the one you came from, which can begin to seem like all the rest of them and consequently becomes a "new" option as well). Then, when we were both finally in agreement on which was correct we'd make the turn, much to the relief of the drivers behind us. It wasn't quite as bad as the famous scene around the monster roundabout at Paris' Arc de Triomphe from National Lampoons, but close.

So, onward. Upon arrival at Chateau Margaux we were greeted by Tina Bizard, with whom we're pictured here.

Tina is studying to become a wine tasting professional much like I did with the International Sommelier Guild, and it was fun to chat with her about her curriculum and drive to learn more about the sensory appreciation of fine wines. She was a real pleasure to chat and tour with, and patiently answered my many questions - thank you!

Chateau Margaux's cellars are impressive, although not giant (at least, not by Burdundian standards, where they can house millions of bottles). Because Bordeaux is built around so much water (the Atlantic to the west and the Gironde estuary to the east) it's tough to dig caves here. Consequently, the property's largest barrel storage room and the only one underground was only built in 1982. The on-site bottle storage area, which boasts goodies from as far back as 1848, is actually situated partially above ground.

Tina explained that the storage area's temperature fluctuations that come with being partially above ground prove that good wine does not necessarily require permanently cool and non-undulating temperatures. Rather, she said, the most important thing is that most of the factors are constant - such as vibration, humidity and light.

Speaking of humidity, the "big barrel room" downstairs built in 1982 features state of the art humidifying mist that actually came on when I was down there. SO COOL. Even Jen, who didn't know what it was for, was totally impressed. The juxtaposition of old school-looking wall sconces like this one (from the barrel room) and the mist was a great explanation of modern Bordeaux's expert blending of these two worlds.

Cooperage time! Margaux is, I believe, the only Bordeaux chateau to retain a full-time cooper.

Their cooper (who'd just departed on vacation for the August holiday every Frenchman seems to take) makes about 30% of all their barrels. Here's another shot of some old school-looking equipment in there.

Tasting: we sampled the 1999 Chateau Margaux and it was quite good. I thought the nose was outstanding but the palate could - admittedly, as Tina offered - use 5 or 6 more years to really come into its own.

Still, the nose had this lovely banana aroma going on, as well as toast, cassis, ripe cherry, cinnamon, nutmeg, cocoa and coffee bean. The palate, despite the tannin's being a bit grippy (again, needs more time) had promising flavors that echoed the nose, including cassis, a touch of mint, cranberry and baking spice. What an experience!

Chateau Margaux welcomes annually about 8 to 10 thousand visitors, by appointment only. I highly recommend trying to stop by if you're in the area. It's not only gorgeous to eyeball, but the grounds, equipment and the whole operation evoke a sense of time gone by. That, combined with their attentive customer service and absolutely beautiful wines make them a total class act.

www.chateau-margaux.com

PS: meanwhile, back at the ranch (AKA the city of Bordeaux, where we're staying), JC and I are discovering some fabulous hidden gems in terms of restaurants and bars tucked into the old town near our hotel.

Here's a sneak peak at some of that action, with more on the way.

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